Michael Gaylard Photography

Historical Development

Early 20th Century Origins

The project to create Plaza de España began in 1911, replacing fields and a former convent-turned-barracks. It was conceived as a monumental civic space honouring Spanish cultural identity.

Mid-20th Century Modernisation

The arrival of skyscrapers such as the Torre de Madrid (1950s) and Edificio España marked a new era of modernisation and architectural ambition.

21st Century Renovation

After years of planning, the square underwent a major redesign and reopened to pedestrians on 22 November 2021. The renovation expanded green areas, improved accessibility, and created new pedestrian links to the Royal Palace, Sabatini Gardens, and Temple of Debod.

Key Monuments and Features

Cervantes Monument

The central feature of the square, created for the 1915–1916 commemorations of Cervantes. Designed by Rafael Martínez Zapatero with sculptor Pedro Muguruza Otaño.- Includes statues of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza, with a reflecting pool forming one of Madrid’s most photographed views.

Surrounding Architecture

Torre de Madrid (left of the monument)
Edificio España (right), now home to the Hotel Riu
Casa Gallardo, a major Modernist landmark nearby

History

Founding and construction — The building originated as the church of the Bernardine (Bernardas) convent founded in 1615; construction of the present church began in 1671 and was completed in 1744. Cathedral status — After acquisition by Spain’s Ministry of Defence, it was designated the Cathedral of the Armed Forces (Catedral Castrense) in the 1980s and has served as the seat of the Military Archbishopric (Arzobispado Castrense) since then.

Architecture and Art

Architectural style — The church is a single-nave, Baroque building with a prominent dome and lantern; its façade shows a sober granite, Herrerian-influenced appearance typical of Madrid’s 17th–18th century ecclesiastical architecture. Interior decoration — The vaults and dome are richly painted with frescoes by members of the González Velázquez family; notable paintings by Luca Giordano and several neoclassical altarpieces are also housed inside. Notable works — The church preserves important devotional images and relics, including a revered Crucifix associated with the Sevillian school and other 17th–18th century works.

Religious Role and Administration

Function — It functions as the principal church for Spain’s military chaplaincy, hosting liturgies and ceremonies for the Armed Forces and housing offices of the Military Archbishopric. Ownership and management — The property is owned by the Spanish Ministry of Defence and administered in coordiSpain with the Arzobispado Castrense; the cathedral is served by a rector who is a military chaplain.

Architecture and exterior

The basilica is an important example of Spanish Baroque with Italian influences. Its most distinctive external feature is the convex, bowed façade crowned by twin towers with spires and a convex pediment — a rare treatment in Madrid Baroque and one reason the building is singled out in the city’s architectural heritage. The façade includes allegorical statues (Charity, Faith, Hope, Fortitude) and sculptural panels by Roberto Michel and Nicolás Caresana. The building was declared a national historic-artistic monument in the mid-1980s.

Interior and artworks

The interior follows a Latin-cross layout with a central nave and a decorated dome. The cupola is frescoed (1745) by Bartolomé Rusca, depicting the apotheosis of Saints Justus and Pastor. Notable sculptures include the Cristo de la Fe y del Perdón by Luis Salvador Carmona, an 18th-century devotional image that plays a central role in Madrid’s Holy Week processions. The basilica’s acoustics and organ make it a frequent venue for sacred music and cultural programming.